Esthetician’s Day Off

If you’re like many people new to the beauty industry, you may have heard of an Esthetician and wondered, “well, what the heck is that?” Newsflash:  It’s not an Anesthesiologist!  This may seem extremely random to you, or you may be thinking, “I was so confused, because that’s what I thought an Esthetician was!”  Either way, I always have to emphasize that an Esthetician is not an Anesthesiologist.   I’ve been in the beauty industry as a licensed Esthetician for over 18 years and hundreds of times over the years when I’ve told someone that I’m an Esthetician, the response I’ve gotten is, “Like, you give people anesthesia?”  No.  I am not a doctor.  Anesthesiologists are doctors, I am not. Have you heard of a Facialist?  Or a Skin Care Specialist?  These are both alternative names for an Esthetician.  Let me break it down a little further for you. Estheticians focus on skin care, as a profession.  We are trained in various areas dealing with caring for the skin, such as:  Performing Facials Hair Removal (ie. waxing) Makeup Application (ie. Makup Artists) These are the 3 main areas that Estheticians are trained in, though depending on your school, and your state, the training may be more or less advanced. Estheticians complete a training program that is usually part of a Cosmetology school.  What is Cosmetology?  According to dictionary.com Cosmetology is: the professional skill or practice of beautifying the face, hair, and skin.  Cosmetology encompasses skincare, hair care, and nail care.  Esthetics is a sub specialty within the Cosmetology heading, and in most states is governed by the Cosmetology State Board, though each state has their own requirements for licensure. So, what exactly does an Esthetician do?  Well, like I listed above, we perform facials (check out this post to find out the exact steps in a basic facial!), we remove hair from people’s faces and bodies, and we apply makeup.  We are trained to perform these services in a sanitary, and educated manner so that it is as safe and healthy as possible. Now, when you hear facial, you might wonder why someone needs specialized training in this area, especially when you’re talking about a basic facial.  Not only are there universal precautions you must take to protect your clients skin and health, but there are also specialized tools that we use that require training, such as the galvanic and high frequency currents, microdermabrasion machines, and so on.  Maybe the most important part is understanding not only what skin care products do for the skin (read my next blog post!) but also what ingredients are in skincare products, and how they interact with the skin.  It is a SCIENCE. Hair removal is the same concept.  Most schools teaching waxing techniques, but some schools teaching sugaring instead or as well.  Why do you need training for this?  Easy!  Because you need to learn proper sanitization and sterilization precautions so as to keep your client safe and healthy.  It is very easy to cause any number of skin infections (or worse) by not being properly educated on how to use wax, how to prep the skin, what temperature is safe, etc.  Makeup Application is a little different in terms of Esthetics training.  Makeup Application is part of Cosmetology and Esthetics programs, but there are also training programs outside of Cosmetology schools that are focused simply on makeup application.  Every state is different about what they legally allow when it comes to Makeup application.  For example, in Pennsylvania, you are not allowed to apply makeup in a professional setting to people’s faces unless you are licensed under the Cosmetology state board to do so.  But, again, all states have different requirements. In terms of training in Esthetics and Cosmetology programs, all schools are different as well.  Some schools will spend 1 day teaching makeup application, where others will have a significantly longer makeup application portion of the program.  My school provided us with 3 days out of the 300 hours of Esthetic training.  So, like most things related to Esthetics, I learned most of what I know, on the job or through additional training and continuing education courses. So, to sum it all up, an Esthetician is a Skin Care Specialist with extensive training in caring for the skin.  We are not anesthesiologists, dermatologists, or any other doctor for that matter (unless we have separate medical training, of course). I hope this helps!  For more information, check out my YouTube video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWraVkpCO30&t=5s Favorite

I’m frequently asked what exactly a facial is and how it’s different from regular, daily, skin cleansing. There are many steps to a professional facial, and the fun part is that each facial is a little bit different.  If you’ve seen more than one Esthetician in your life, you’ll probably notice that the process is slightly different from person to person, but the basic steps are the same.  While I offer a variety of facials, they all have the same basic components: cleanse, exfoliate, extract, massage, masque, tone, moisturize, SPF. Depending on your needs, we might skip the extractions or the massage, or we may change up the exfoliation process by adding a glycolic or lactic peel, or by using the dermafile as a form of manual microdermabrasion.  Regardless of the type of facial you choose (basic, signature, dermafile, etc.), each step has a specific function for your skin. STEP ONE:  Cleanse During the first step of all facials, we cleanse the skin using an appropriate cleanser for your skin type.  There are cleansers for all skin types, normal, combination, dry, oily, acneic, aging, sensitive, and so on. The purpose of the cleanser is to remove makeup, dead skin cells, oil, dirt, and other pollutants that may be sitting on the surface of the skin, clogging the pores. STEP TWO:  Exfoliate After cleansing, we move on to exfoliation.  During most facials at Cara B., your skin will be steamed during the exfoliation process, to open your pores for the next step, which I’ll get to in just a moment.  There are 2 forms of exfoliation, mechanical and chemical. During mechanical exfoliation, we use one of 2 scrubs. Both use jojoba beads to scrub and polish the skin.  One has the addition of retinol while the other includes blue cornmeal. For more advanced exfoliation, the dermafile can be used. For chemical exfoliation, we use enzymes and/or glycolic, salicylic, or lactic acid peels.  All of the enzymes used at Cara B. are fruit based enzymes which use actual fruit purees and extracts to exfoliate the skin. Sometimes the enzyme will feel tingly, which is the enzyme doing its job to dissolve and digest excess debris on the surface of the skin. STEP THREE:  Extractions After the exfoliation is complete and the skin has been gently steamed, it’s time for extractions. Extractions are simply clearing clogged pores, essentially removing blackheads. The steam opens and softens the pores, allowing the compacted dirt and debris to be lifted out.  Depending on the level of compaction, extractions can cause discomfort and occasional pain, though with the assistance of an ultrasonic skin scrubber when possible, this process can be less painful.   STEP FOUR:  Facial Massage Once the pores have been successfully extracted, a gentle cucumber or mint toner is applied through either a gentle mist or with cotton to help calm the skin from the extraction process.  From here, we proceed to the most relaxing portion of the facial, the massage. What’s the point of facial massage other than to relax you? Well, there are quite a few reasons! First off, facial massage can help relax the muscles of the face, which of course has a calming effect.  However, face massage can also help tone and tighten facial muscles as well as create greater circulation, giving the skin a natural glow. Most facial massages at Cara B. use a hydration mask which penetrates into the skin to help hydrate parched skin. Now, depending on the client’s needs, we may use a seaweed mask or fractionated coconut oil for this part. STEP FIVE:  Masque At the completion of the facial massage, we’ll once again tone with cucumber or mint toner and then apply a masque for 10-15 minutes.  Masques are formulated to penetrate the skin once it’s been thoroughly cleansed. Some masques are creamy and deeply hydrating while also providing important nutrients, other masques are clay or even charcoal based which can help clear clogged pores.  Yet still, other masques are gel based and have other benefits as well. STEP SIX:  Serum & Moisturizer Once the masque has penetrated the skin, the excess masque is removed.  An appropriate serum is applied prior to the moisturizer, though sometimes the serum is applied prior to the masque application.  Serums function as sort of a lightweight moisturizer that penetrates more deeply into the skin delivering active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin.  Moisturizer is applied after the serum, because the serum functions minimally as a moisturizer, and more as an active ingredient delivery system. Moisturizer’s main function is to keep the skin hydrated by including ingredients like humectants, which draw moisture from the air to the skin, glycerin which acts as a lubricant to keep the skin soft and smooth, and a variety of natural ingredients like aloe among others. STEP SEVEN:  SPF After the application of moisturizer, the facial is closed out by applying SPF.  At Cara B., we use a powder sunblock called Brush on Block which you can learn about here and purchase here.  Why SPF after a facial? Well, after a facial, your skin will be more sensitive to the sun because the surface of the skin has been exfoliated/polished, leaving behind new skin that needs protection from the sun’s harmful rays.  Why do we use a powder SPF rather than a cream SPF? This is all personal preference. I don’t like the feel of cream or spray on sunblock, so I discovered that powder sunblock exists and once I tried it on myself, and had excellent results (I burn all the time, but not once in 2 years of using Brush on Block).  ​​And that’s it!  Most facials are about 60-75 minutes, though our express facial is shorter at 30 minutes (perfect for a lunchtime pick-me-up!), and our signature facial is longer and more involved at 90 minutes.  Dermafile is available as its own facial, or it can be added to any facial for an additional cost. Favorite

Last week there was a vicious heat wave that made the east coast feel more like a tropical island (minus the palm trees) than the far from tropical, 4 seasons a year climate we are used to.  During that bout of extreme heat and high humidity, I frequently felt as if I was actually in the tropics and all I needed to do was close my eyes to envision myself there. Let’s be honest, it took a lot more than just closing my eyes, but you get the point.  This led me to create a tropical island themed facial that I think you’ll enjoy. My Tropical Island Facial includes purees and extracts of pineapple, coconut, papaya, wakame seaweed, and lychee fruit. Each component has skin healing benefits and the best part is that it’s all natural!  As always, my facials are customized to your needs and concerns, so I may make small adjustments as needed for your particular skin.  Some of the active ingredients in the enzymes and masks in the Tropical Island Facial are: Coconut Papaya Enzyme:1. Coconut2. Papaya3. Witch Hazel4. Yogurt Extract Lychee Mask:1. Glycerin2. Lychee Fruit Extract3. Ascorbyl Glucoside4. Bisabolol Pineapple Enzyme:1. Pineapple Fruit2. Glycerin3. Bromelain Seaweed Mask:1. Chamomile2. Comfrey Leaf Extract3. Wakame (Seaweed) Extract4. Aloe Leaf Juice5. Allantoin6. Tea Tree Oil Let’s take a look at the benefits and properties of these ingredients.  First, let’s start with the coconut papaya enzyme.   What are some of the benefits of coconut?  Well, to start coconut has moisturizing properties and promotes healthy cell growth while also supporting blood circulation which gives the skin a soft, smooth texture.  Coconuts are stone fruits of the coconut tree which a type of palm tree that grows in the tropics. Coconut has many uses in cosmetics but is also a versatile cooking ingredient as well.  Papaya is a natural enzyme that digests and dissolves dead skin cells. It is also an antioxidant that is high in Vitamin C and beta carotene. Papaya plants grow in tropic and subtropic regions throughout the world. Witch Hazel is a flowering plant that is a strong antioxidant and astringent that is often used as a natural remedy for psoriasis, eczema, and other skin conditions. The leaves and bark of Hamamelis Virginiana (the North American Witch Hazel) are extracted to produce an astringent which is used in cosmetics, traditional medicine, and herbal medicine.  Yogurt extract moisturizes, smoothes, and stimulates cellular regeneration. Yogurt extract moisturizes, smoothes, and stimulates cellular regeneration.  Yogurt naturally contains lactic acid, which, when used on the skin, works as an exfoliant and removes dead skin cells.  ​ The pineapple enzyme contains pineapple fruit, which is a Vitamin C antioxidant that protects skin from oxidative stress.  Pineapple naturally contains the enzyme Bromelain which is a proteolytic enzyme that digests keratinocytes and softens the skin.  Bromelain is also an anti-inflammatory for the skin. Like the coconut and papaya I talked about previously, pineapple is also a tropical plant, that grows in places like Costa Rica, Brazil, Thailand, and Hawaii.  Pineapple is a symbol of hospitality and like many fruits and vegetables, it an be just as nourishing on the body as in the body. The pineapple enzyme also contains Glycerin, which acts as an emollient and lubricant as well as a humectant to draw moisture from the air to the skin.  Glycerin is an organic compound known more formally as glycerol. Its common sources are animal fat and vegetable oil. The seaweed mask is a clear, jelly like mask that contains Chamomile, Comfrey Leaf Extract, Wakame (Seaweed) Extract, Aloe Leaf Juice, Allantoin, and Tea Tree Oil.  Chamomile is ideal for replenishing and enriching dry or sensitive skin while it’s anti-itching and antiseptic properties also help to refresh the skin and reduce inflammation.  Chamomile is a daisy-like plant whose flowers can be used in skin care preparations, herbal tea, oil infusions, and extracted to get Chamomile essential oil. Comfrey Leaf Extract is derived from the herb Comfrey and is used to heal blemishes, but is also commonly used as an herbal tea.  ​ Wakame (seaweed) extract is used to normalize, nourish, and hydrate the skin. It also regenerates cells, detoxifies, and provides suppleness. Wakame seaweed is commonly used in Japanese cuisine, but has shown to have many nutrients beneficial to outside of the body (the skin) as well as the inside of the body.  Aloe Leaf Juice soothes and calms redness and inflammation, and also provides gentle hydration while protecting the skin from external aggression. Aloe leaf juice is a gooey, thick liquid made from the flesh of the aloe vera plant leaf and is commonly known to treat sunburns.  The Aloe Vera plant is a succulent plant species that is native to the south-west Arabian Peninsula, though is grown in temperate and tropical regions of Australia, South America, Mexico, the Caribbean and many southeastern US states.   Allantoin, in its organic form, is is found in several plants, including:  comfrey, chamomile, wheat sprouts, tobacco seed, and sugar beets.  Most often nowadays, allantoin is synthesized in a lab, but is chemically identical to its naturally occurring counterpart.  It soothes and calms the skin, and also relieves itching and irritation. Lastly, the seaweed mask contains Tea Tree Oil, an essential oil, extracted from the Melaleuca alternifolia tree, which is a species of tree or small shrub in the myrtle family.  Tea tree oil provides antiseptic properties to reduce the spread of infectious material that can encourage acne. It naturally reduces oil production without stripping the skin of protective barriers that prevent future breakouts. The Lychee Fruit Mask is a creamy, nourishing mask that reduces heat rash, addresses dark spots, and manages breakouts.  First and foremost, the lychee mask contains Lychee fruit extract, which brightens and rejuvenates skin by protecting against oxidative stress.  The lychee tree is a tropical tree, native to parts of China. Glycerin, which we talked about a few paragraphs up, is a common ingredient in cosmetics.  Ascorbyl Glucoside is simply a stable form of Vitamin C.

You know how it goes… a random pimple appears out of nowhere, and you have a big event coming up, do you pop it, put hot compresses on it, just cover it up, or curl up into a ball and cry until it goes away?  Clearly, there are many solutions to this pimple dilemma, and I would know, because I’ve tried ALL of them.  Luckily, I discovered the Skin Script Blemish Spot Treatment and discovered that it is truly amazing and does exactly what it says it’s going to do, as evidenced by my photos below of a mean ‘ole pimple that came out of the blue overnight and ruined my day.  I used the Blemish Spot Treatment daily starting on a Saturday, and by Wednesday not only was the pimple gone, but because I didn’t squeeze it and do ridiculous things to it, it was barely noticeable! The Blemish Spot treatment is made up of 4 main ingredients that work hard to dissolve your annoying blemishes.   Glycolic Acid (5%) – A deeply penetrating alpha hydroxy acid that reduces wrinkles and promotes resurfacing to refine skin texture.  It provides progressive skin clearing and promotes cellular renewal that expedites the healing of breakouts. Salicylic Acid – Penetrates into the pores to dissolve impacted sebum that causes blackheads.  It exfoliates the skin and reduces redness and inflammation associated with pustular breakouts. Witch Hazel – A flowering plant that is a strong antioxidant and astringent that is often used as a natural remedy for psoriasis, eczema, and other skin conditions. Spin Trap – Entraps reactive oxygen species to restore proper chemical structure and spin to destructive molecules.  It also limits lipid peroxidation and free radical damage. Now, you may be wondering about some of the details mentioned regarding these main ingredients.  For example, what is an alpha hydroxy acid?  Or, what is sebum?  What is an antioxidant and why is it good for my skin?  Have no fear, Cara is here!  Yeah, I know, that sounds ridiculous, but I mean it, I’m here to help you understand your skin and how to keep it healthy, strong, and as clear as possible. Let’s start at the beginning.  What is a pimple?  According to Milady’s Standard Textbook for Professional Estheticians, a pimple is an inflamed, red or blue-red lump that appears when a follicle becomes filled with oil, dead cells, and bacteria which causes it to swell and rupture, causing the debris to escape into the dermis.  Because the debris is irritating and causes inflammation, white blood cells rush in to fight against the bacteria and create pus, which is a sticky, yellowish secretion.  So, this pus sits just under the skin and creates an unsightly blemish that sometimes can be pretty painful!  How do we tackle it and make it go away?  Well, that’s where the hydroxy acids come in.  But before we get there, let’s talk a little bit more about where pimples come from.  Human skin has 2 types of glands.  Sudoriferous glands, also known as sweat glands, and sebaceous glands, also known as oil glands.  We’re going to focus our attention for a few minutes on sebaceous glands.  Sebaceous glands produce sebum which is an oily substance that lubricates the surface of the skin and helps prevent the surface from dehydration.  The problem arises when sebum becomes trapped in the gland and creates a blackhead. The bigger problem arises when the blackhead becomes infected, and the trapped sebum and debris becomes more impacted, inflamed, and irritated, now you have yourself a pimple. So, what exactly is a hydroxy acid?  There are 2 categories; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble substances that act as chemical exfoliants, rather than manual or physical exfoliants.  Beta hydroxy acids are lipid soluble substances, meaning that they are able to penetrate the skin through sebaceous glands.  Ok, but let’s take it a step further.  We’re talking specifically about 2 acids: glycolic acid, which is an alpha hydroxy acid and salicylic acid which is a beta hydroxy acid.  Glycolic acid is derived from cane sugar, unripe grapes, and sugar beets, while salicylic acid is obtained from the bark of the white willow and wintergreen leaves.  Glycolic acid has the smallest molecules and therefore can penetrate deeper into the pores than the other alpha hydroxy acids (lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and mandelic acid).  The combination of these 2 acids penetrates deep into the pores to fight off the bacteria underneath but also works to exfoliate the skin, helping to prevent future breakouts. Now, what is an antioxidant?  An antioxidant is a substance that protects the body through blocking or counteracting the damaging effects of free radical activity.  Ok, that’s great, but what’s a free radical?  Easy!  Quite simply, it’s an unstable oxygen atom that tries to “steal” electrons from other atoms, causing cell damage; a process known as lipid peroxidation. Pretty simple, right?  References: Gerson, Joel.  Milady’s Standard Textbook for Professional Estheticians. Albany: Thomson Learning, 1999. Skin Script Product Manual, 2016 D’Angelo, Janet, et al.  Milady’s Standard Comprehensive Training for Estheticians.  Clifton Park:  Thomson Delmar Learning, 2003. https://skinbetter.com/difference-ahas-bhas/ https://www.livestrong.com/article/91978-harmful-effects-alpha-hydroxy-acid/ https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/salicylic_acid Favorite

While it may be the very beginning of spring here in the Northeast (though it feels like the dead of winter!), that doesn’t mean that the sun is finished doing its job.  See, even in the colder weather, when you’re not traipsing around in shorts, tank tops, flip flops, bathing suits, etc. the sun is still working hard to make an enemy of your skin, if you don’t take the steps to protect it.  The sun has many tremendous benefits, but under it’s bright and cheerful exterior, lurks a dark, angry, hot ball of fire that wants nothing more than to fry your skin and cause you health problems.  If you’re not careful, you may not only suffer the pain and irritation of sunburn, but you may suffer worse health issues, such as skin cancer. As a skin care specialist, it is my job to educate others about protecting their skin.  The number one thing you can do to protect your skin, on a daily basis, is to use sun protection.  There are many different types of sunblock out there, many of which contain harmful ingredients.  In fact, the only active ingredients in Brush on Block are:  Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide (more on these ingredients ahead).  Inactive Ingredients:  Alumina, Boron Nitride, Chamomile Flower Extract, Green Tea Extract, Honeysuckle Flower Extract, Iron Oxides, Jojoba Oil, Mica, Rice Lipids, Rice Starch, Safflower Oil, Silica, Stearic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane.  Before we go through the steps of using your Brush on Block (after the next 2 paragraphs) let’s have a quick skin anatomy overview and short lesson on Ultraviolet (UV) rays and what SPF means in regards to those UV rays.  Feel free to skip ahead if you already have a comfortable background in skin anatomy. The sun wreaks havoc on unprotected skin, and can cause damage such as skin cancer, premature wrinkles, sunburn, and so on. To fully understand this, I think it’s important to have a quick anatomical review. So, let’s talk skin. The skin has 3 main layers. The outermost layer of skin is called the epidermis, which is made up of 5 layers.  Starting from the outermost layer they are, stratum corneum (superficial layer of skin made up of about 15-30 layers of epithelial cells, which are dead skin cells), stratum lucidum (thin, somewhat translucent layer that only exists in the thick skin of the palms of the hands, soles of the feet, and palm side of the fingers), stratum granulosum (3-5 layers of cells which generate large amounts of the proteins keratin and keratohyalin, which make up the bulk of the keratinocyte mass in this layer and give it a grainy appearance), stratum spinosum (composed of 8-10 layers of keratinocytes which begin the synthesis of keratin and release a water-repelling glycolipid that helps prevent water loss from the body), and finally, stratum basale (single layer of cells primarily made of basal cells, which are stem cells of the epidermis.  The cells in this layer bond to the dermis via intertwining collagen fibers).   The dermis, which is beneath the epidermis houses blood vessels, hair follicles, sweat glands, and other structures is made up of 2 layers: Papillary (composed of loose areolar connective tissue and fine and loosely arranged collagen fibers) and Reticular (composed of dense irregular connective tissue featuring densely packed collagen fibers). The dermis contains tough connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands. The deepest layer of the skin is subcutaneous tissue, which is also called the hypodermis and is made of fat and connective tissue.  Its main job is to connect the skin to the underlying fascia of muscles (see photo above) and bones. Now that you have a basic understanding of skin, let’s talk a little bit about UV (Ultraviolet) rays.  UVB rays, when no skin barrier exists, penetrate just through the epidermis, causing sunburn and can contribute to certain types of skin cancer. UVA rays, on the other hand, can penetrate through all layers of the skin, causing premature skin aging and like UVB rays, can contribute to certain skin cancers.  It is important to note however, that even though UVA rays can reach deeper into the skin layers (because they have a longer wavelength), they are not as strong as UVB rays. Sunblock or sunscreen that has broad spectrum protection will protect against both UVB and UVA rays.  The two active ingredients in Brush on Block that I mentioned earlier are Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Titanium Dioxide is approved by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) for use as a sunscreen, and they list it as one of the most effective active ingredients in sunscreens and sunblocks.  Titanium Dioxide is derived from Titanium which is a highly reflective mineral.  Due to its reflective properties, it works to reflect the UV rays.  It is also nonirritating, non-allergenic, and non-comedogenic.  Zinc Oxide provides protection by absorbing primarily UVA light rather than reflecting or scattering it like Titanium Dioxide does.  It is non-comedoogenic, and is a mild antimicrobial. In addition to knowing your sunscreen ingredients, it’s also important to know what SPF (Sun Protection Factor) your sunscreen has. Brush on Block has an SPF of 30.  What does SPF actually mean?  SPF measures the length of time it will take for UVB rays to burn skin while using a sunscreen as compared to how long skin takes to burn without the sunscreen.  So, for example, SPF of 15 takes 15 times longer to burn skin than no SPF at all.  SPF 30 protects the skin against 97 of UVB rays. All of that being said, let’s to dive into the inter-workings of the Brush on Block.  I’ve broken it down into steps for you to follow, plus pictures for those of you who, like me, need to see things in order to learn. TO OPEN YOUR BRUSH ON BLOCK: Step 1: Hold Brush on Block in Hand. Step 2: Remove Brush on Block Cap to expose Brush Protector. Step 3: Lower Brush Protector. Step 4: Lower Brush Protector all