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The Corner of Beauty & Foodie: A Skincare Regimen Reimagined as a 9-Course Meal

Today, we’re talking all about understanding how skincare products work with the skin!  In other words, how do these products interact with the skin, and what do they do for the skin? Understanding the exact purpose of skincare products can be tricky, however, put it in food terms & suddenly we’re all experts!  More on that in a few. If you read my last blog post or listened to Episode 11 of my podcast, then you should have a little bit clearer of an understanding of the anatomy of the skin.  If you haven’t, I recommend you read this post!  Now that you understand skin anatomy, let’s talk a bit about how skincare products work with the skin. First off, it’s good to have an idea of what skincare products are.  There is a wide variety of types of skincare products, and below is a relatively inclusive list. Skincare Product Types Cleansers Toners Exfoliants Masques Serums Moisturizers Sunblocks Eye Creams Chemical Peels Treatments Beauty = Foodie! So now that you have a general idea of the basic product categories, let’s talk about how skincare products work with the skin.  Obviously, this varies by product and what it’s purpose is.  For example, a cleanser and a moisturizer are not going to react the same way with the skin, because they have different purposes.  A cleanser’s job is to remove surface debris, where a moisturizer’s job is to attract and retain moisture in the skin.  So, in order to understand how the products work with the skin, we need to figure out what the product’s purpose is.  I’m not going to get into the chemistry behind it because, well… that’s too far above my head!  So, let’s go in a more abstract direction.   Pin for later! Skincare product ingredients are like recipe ingredients.  In a recipe for a meal, each ingredient adds flavor and/or nutrients and/or texture.  In skincare products, the ingredients add effect and/or scent and/or color.  For example:  Emollients smooth and soften the skin Emulsifiers stabilize the mixture Essential Oils add nutrients (or other effects) and add scent So essentially, a skincare product, like a cleanser or an exfoliant or a moisturizer, is a portion of a meal, and when you put them all together, it’s like a full 9 course meal!   Example 9 course Meal: Hors ‘d’oeuvre – Cleanser Amuse-bouche – Toner Appetizer – Exfoliant Salad – Chemical Peel Cheese Plate – Masque Main Course – Serum Palate Cleanser – Moisturizer Dessert – Eye Cream  Mignardise – Sunblock Now, this list just explains the order in which each product is used in comparison to the order in which each course is eaten.  In the table below, I’m going to compare each product to its most equal food course in terms of what the product does. Skincare Products vs. 9-Course Meal Cleanses the skin of surface dirt and debris and prepares the skin for further products. Removes dead skin cells with either a textured exfoliant  like ground walnut shells, jojoba beads, etc. or a chemical exfoliant such as an enzyme. Potent combination of ingredients that penetrate deeply into the pores to both deliver nutrients to the skin and also remove impurities. Emulsion of oil and water that attracts moisture to the skin and locks it in. Small finger foods to prepare your taste buds for more food to come. A platter of cheeses of varying textures and flavors with accompanying crackers, nuts, fruits, or even cured meats. Assortment of raw vegetables with a flavorful dressing.   A small dish of food or a drink eaten before a meal or the main course of a meal to stimulate one’s appetite. Helps remove remaining dirt and debris and give skin a boost of hydration. The “main event”.  A specific acid (glycolic, lactic, salicylic, etc) is applied to the skin which penetrates deeply and removes the outer layers of the skin. Designed to deliver high concentrations of active ingredients to the skin, but are very light and absorb quickly. Thicker formulation than moisturizer as it’s formulated for the delicate eye area. Neutral food or drink that removes any food residue (flavor) from your tongue, “resetting” your taste buds. Meat (or other protein), vegetables, and a grain to provide a hearty and filling course. Small, but flavorful taste of food that’s to come, translated to: “Amuse the mouth”. Delicate, bite sized dessert or pastry. The final step of the skincare regimen, that protects skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays from the sun. Sweet and Decadent course to close out the meal. How skincare products work with the skin Are you ready to eat now?  I know I am!  I hope this breakdown of skincare products told as a full 9-course meal was helpful for you!   Bonus points to WebstaurantStore for this awesome article on Full Course meals!  I knew a bunch about meal courses, but I certainly didn’t know all of this!  Score! If you haven’t yet, check out my podcast episode below, where I go through all of this in a little more detail. Related: Favorite

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Let’s talk about skin bay-bee! AKA Skin Anatomy 101

Pin for later! Understanding the skin is the first step to understanding how and why to take care of your skin.   If you’d prefer a slideshow, scroll to the bottom of the page to view. The first step in understanding the skin, is understanding the anatomy of the skin, so let’s dive right in! The skin is made up of 3 main layers: Epidermis (outermost layer) Dermis (middle layer) Hypodermis (deepest layer) Within each of these layers, are sublayers.  Let’s break it down layer by layer, shall we? Epidermis The Epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin.  This is the layer that you can see when you look at your skin. The purpose of the Epidermis is to give our bodies a barrier and protect us against UV (ultraviolet) radiation, harmful chemicals and pathogens (bacteria, viruses, fungi, etc.), and  even protects us from water! The Epidermis has 4-5 layers, depending on where on the body we’re talking about.  Most areas have 4 layers, but areas of thick skin, which include the palms of the hands and soles of the feet, contain a 5th layer.  Even though this layer of skin has the most sublayers, it is also the thinnest of the 3 main layers, at around 0.1mm in thickness. Layers of the Epidermis Stratum Corneum Stratum Lucidum Stratum Granulosum Stratum Spinosum Stratum Basale Each layer has a different composition and a different function.   Stratum Corneum The Stratum Corneum is the outermost layer of the Epidermis, made up of about 20-30 layers of mostly dead, flattened skin cells with no nuclei or cell organelles.   The Stratum Corneum functions as the body’s first line of defense.  The name, “corneum” is derived from cornification, also known as keratinization.  Cornification occurs in this layer and is  the process where living keratinocytes are transformed into dead corneocytes.   The main function of the Stratum Corneum is to help prevent the penetration of of external toxins and bacteria, and other harmful pathogens.  The Stratum Corneum also repels water, protects against mechanical stress, such as abrasions that would harm the more delicate, living lower layers of the Epidermis. Stratum Lucidum The Stratum Lucidum is only found in thicker skin on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. This layer is clear, and consists of 2-3 layers of dead, flattened skin cells, similar to the cells in the Stratum Corneum. The main function of Stratum Lucidum is to give the skin the capability to stretch. The cells in this layer are filled with a protein called eleiden which gives the cells their transparent appearance.  The presence of eleiden is what makes the skin waterproof. Stratum Granulosum The Stratum Granulosum is another relatively thin layer of the skin, with only 3-5 layers of skin cells.  The cells in this layer aren’t completely flattened, but have started the flattening process, and therefore have a diamond-like shape to them. This layer has a granular appearance, hence the name “granulosum”, due to the changes that the keratinocytes are going through. The main function of the Stratum Granulosum is to act as both a barrier for harmful substances from entering the body, and also a transitional layer where keratinocytes begin to die, causing their nuclei and other organelles to disintegrate, before pushing up to the Stratum Lucidum and eventually the Stratum Corneum. Stratum Spinosum The Stratum Spinosum is a thicker layer, at 8-10 layers of cells.  The cells in this layer have a polyhedral (3 dimensional) shape. Within the Stratum Spinosum is the beginning of the keratinization process.  Keratinization is a process during which epithelial cells (cells that line various structures inside and outside the body, including the skin) become filled with keratin protein filaments.  During this process, the cells die and become much tougher and resistant. The main function of this layer is to help with skin flexibility, and to help the epidermis to withstand the effects of friction and abrasion. Stratum Basale/Germinativum The Stratum Basale, also known as the Stratum Germinativum is the bottom layer of the Epidermis.  This deepest layer contains stem cells that create keratinocytes, and also contains melanocytes.  This layer is a single layer of cells that are either cuboidal or columnar. Melanocytes have 2 functions.  First, it produces melanin, which gives skin its color.  The second function is to protect the living cells in the skin from damage from UV radiation. Dermis The layer beneath the Epidermis is called the Dermis.  While the Dermis is only made up of 2 layers rather than the 5 that the Epidermis is made up of, it is much thicker.  Though it varies, it is between 1-4 mm. Within the Dermis are nerves, blood & lymph vessels, hair follicles, sweat glands, and other structures. Layers of the Dermis Papillary Dermis Reticular Dermis Papillary Dermis The Papillary Dermis is made up of loose connective tissue including Collagen & Elastin, as well as nerve fibers, touch receptors, phagocytes, and lymphatic capillaries.  The Collagen and Elastin fibers in this layer form a loose “mesh.”  The Papillary Layer is called this because it extends into the Stratum Basale creating finger like projections, known as Papillae. The Papillary Dermis has 2 main functions.   To support the epidermis, which is avascular (meaning it has no blood vessels), by providing vital nutrients. To regulate body temperature through a process known as thermoregulation. Reticular Dermis The reticular layer of the dermis sits below the Papillary Dermis and is thicker.  It consists of dense irregular connective tissue.  This layer also contains the hair roots, sebaceous glands, sweat glands, and blood vessels. The main function of the Reticular Dermis is to give the skin strength, elasticity, and structure. Hypodermis Lastly, the Hypodermis is the bottom layer of the skin, sitting below the Dermis.  The Hypodermis is also known as the Subcutaneous Layer, Subcutaneous Tissue or the Subcutis. The Hypodermis consists of primarily Adiposde (fat) tissue.  It also contains fibroblasts, macrophages, loose areolar connective tissue, larger nerves, and blood cells. The Hypodermis serves 2 main functions: Insulation, conserving

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